The idea first came up 14 years ago at the start of my gap year as I was sketching out my ideas for a startup. Back then - well before the idea of vegan handbags came up - the idea was to work with cinnamon peelers to produce high quality artisanal cinnamon oil. I wanted to structure the supply chain in a way that the peelers and producers can organise themselves into cooperatives, thereby empowering members to advance their economic, social and cultural wellbeing.
Unfortunately, fresh out of school and hardly with much experience I couldn't get the plans off the ground. But the passion to create an enterprise that will empower marginalised communities remained. Through Kantala, I have now finally realised that passion.
Lighting the traditional oil lamp (left to right: Dr Welamedage, Ms Chandrawathi, Mr Dharmadasa, Ms Somawathi).
Kantala was born out of our passion to create an enterprise that is compassionate and respectful to the environment and communities we work with. Creating an independent organisation for the artisan groups working with Kantala was therefore central to our mission of economically, socially and culturally empowering communities.
We worked with our chief artisan, Mr Dharmadasa, to draw up the draft cooperative style structure and objectives. We were greatly supported by Lanka Social Ventures who provided technical assistance and drafted the constitution.
The objective of the association is to secure, promote and develop the traditional craft of Dumbara hana mat weaving by organising artisans into a cohesive group for the creation of new commercial opportunities, introduction of new techniques and advancing the economic, social and cultural wellbeing of the members.
Inaugural meeting in progress at the village community centre.
On 4th July the inaugural meeting of the "Sri Lanka Dumbara Hana Weavers Association" was held with the participation of 20 traditional artisans. Dr Lalith Welamedage, CEO of Lanka Social Ventures, fellow traditional craft enthusiast Charith Wickrema and myself attended as observers.
At the meeting, the full constitution was presented, discussed and adopted by the artisans in attendance. In particular the objects of the association, membership, election of office bearers, income generation and utilisation were discussed in detail.
The first officials of the association were elected at the same meeting. 4 of the 5 office bearers elected were female artisans, including the President and Treasurer. We were delighted with the interest shown by our female artisans to take up leadership roles and the wider support from the membership for their successful election.
Left to right: Ms Vajeesha (President), Mr Dharmadasa (Secretary), Ms Somawathi (Treasurer).
Both Kantala and Lanka Social Ventures will assist the leadership and members with capacity building programmes and connect the Association with external opportunities. Kantala made a commitment to pay 60% of the first year membership fee on behalf of all the inaugural members and expenses incurred for capacity building programmes throughout the first year.
The handwoven Dumbara hana mats are the central piece of every vegan handbag we make and our traditional artisans will always remain an integral part of Kantala. We have some big plans in the pipeline for our artisans and the Association will be central to its implementation. All of us at Kantala wish the inaugural office bearers and members all the very best for a bright and happy future.
]]>In early May 2020 along with another 120 participants from the fashion industry I took part in the Ethical Fashion Hackathon organised by the Ethical Fashion Initiative. Of the four key thematic areas addressed during the Hackathon, we at Kantala were most interested in the area of Production and Sales Cycles.
How we produce and how often we produce has been a key area interest for us at Kantala. While we make vegan handbags which have minimal impact on the people and planet, we are mindful that we can’t continue to consume the way we do right now. We produce too often and we produce too much.
At the hackathon I met Monica Boța-Moisin from the Cultural IP Rights Initiative, Bëdu founder Alice Maturin-Baird and creative thinker Júlia Coma Vilarasu, whom all shared our keen interest in addressing the issue of over production.
We agreed that a combination of unfair pricing mechanisms and contracts are at the centre of what is causing over production and over consumption in the fashion industry. The lack of transparency and solidarity has been the root cause of under priced labour, environmental exploitation and accountability in the fashion industry.
While certifications and audits for fair pricing, environmental safety and labour rights exist, none of them are legally binding and cover the complete value chain for a fashion product. Therefore, we envisioned the application of a single framework on a far broader scale, from farmer to consumer, and applied by a global institution such as the World Trade Organisation in order to make it an essential element of global fashion trade.
Our framework was selected as one of the 8 solutions - from a total of 30 submitted - by the judges. We felt this was a big win and a very important endorsement that we are in need of a global framework of this nature. While we were thankful to the judges and the EFI for this recognition, we were painfully aware of the resources and time needed to bring to life this framework. Given our current commitments we sadly had to communicate to the EFI that we are unable to undertake the project right now.
However, as we realise the importance of such a framework we collectively expressed our approval for EFI to allow other available participants to carry forward this idea and see to its creation and implementation.
On behalf of the team who worked together on this solution I want to thank the EFI for recognising the need for a global solidarity framework in the fashion industry and keeping the solution on the table for future development and implementation.
I absolutely enjoyed being part of the hackathon and in particular meeting the three other team members. We’ve already identified areas where we can collaborate on. Collaboration is the way we can all make a lasting impact on the fashion industry that will leave a positive mark on the people and planet.
All images courtesy the Ethical Fashion Initiative.
]]>With three "World Days", June is an important month for celebrating our environment. At Kantala we are always passionate about the environment, constantly thinking of how our decisions and actions affect it. That's why when we decided to make vegan handbags, we didn't take the easy route of using synthetic leather (also known as faux leather, pleather etc.) but searched for the right kind of material that protected the environment.
Cow hides are the staple leather used throughout the world and is well noted for the environmental damage it causes from deforestation, methane gas release, chrome treatment to the cruelty of killing an animal for an item of fashion. The growing interest in vegan fashion items is therefore highly commendable.
This growing interest in consumers and the emergence of brands with ethical values has seen the growth in vegan fashion and consequently growth in demand for vegan leather. The global vegan leather market is expected to hit US$ 89.6 billion by 2025.
In an attempt to retain the look, feel and functionality of animal leather, the market has turned to synthetic leathers which are also cheap and scalable. In 2019, the synthetic leather market was valued at US$ 29.2 billion and is forecasted to grow to US$ 52.96 billion by 2027.
The two most popular types of synthetic leather are polyurethane (PU) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Both of these are highly toxic, containing chlorine and petroleum, which is highly unsustainable to extract and refine. Oil extraction releases toxic gases, destroys pristine wilderness, causes oil spills and damages biodiversity.
Production of synthetic materials like PU and PVC emits toxic gases, consumes a lot of energy and water in the manufacturing process, leading to contaminated air, water and soil.
PU and PVC have a short lifespan, there by ending up in landfills much more often and don't biodegrade. In landfills, PU and PVC granulate into tiny particles, known as microplastics, which contaminate the soil, air, water sources and end up being consumed by living organisms, including humans. Microplastics are known to cause hormone imbalances, problems in the nervous system and cancer.
The lack of sustainability in synthetic vegan leathers is by no means a reason for us to revert back to using animal based leathers. Thankfully, there are many sustainable vegan materials which can be used to make vegan handbags and fashion accessories.
Bast fibres such as flax and hemp can be used to produce heavy canvas that are ideal for use in fashion accessories. For example, the hana (Agave cantala) plant used to extract the fibres used for all Kantala vegan handbags is a flax plant. Flax, hemp, nettle and other bast fibre plants are very sustainable, as they don't require fertiliser, pesticides and irrigation. Plants like the hana plant keep on regenerating until it flowers.
This category includes a wide variety of vegan materials which are either at a late stage in their development or early stage in the market. A variety of base materials from sustainable sources are used in making these fabrics. Materials such as pineapple leaf fibre, cork, mushrooms, food waste, leaves are used as base materials.
At Kantala, we use Piñatex™, a vegan leather made with a pineapple leaf fibre base material, in our handbags. Piñatex™ is probably the fabric from this category at a more advanced stage in the market. However, overall, this category of fabrics accounts for only a tiny fraction of the materials used for the production of fashion accessories, such as handbags and footwear.
It is very tempting to purchase a vegan handbag made from synthetic leathers like PU and PVC owing to their low price and similarity in appearance to animal leather. However, it is always important to remind ourselves of the extreme levels of pollution caused by synthetic leather, both in their production, use and disposal.
These are few easy "things to do when buying vegan products" that will be sure to help you make conscious purchasing decisions. Being informed about the brand, materials used, durability of the product and their impact is the best way we can all make a purchase that is good for the people and planet.
Last week, on 22nd of May, was International Day for Biological Diversity and COVID-19 has given us a reminder at great human and economic cost as to why we need to protect biodiversity.
Since the turn of the millennium the world has experienced an ever increasing number of zoonotic diseases - pathogens which pass from wild and domestic animals through the biophysical environment to affect humans. COVID-19 is the latest and most deadliest zoonotic diseases in recent history. Today, 65% of all diseases and as much as 75% of all new diseases are zoonotic.
Zoonotic diseases which have affected humans over the last couple of decades have been linked with animals - both wild and domestic - we are very familiar with and in many cases, have close contact with.
With our expanding ecological footprint, boundaries that separate humans and other organisms in the biosphere continue to blur, causing increased transfer of pathogens between different groups within the biosphere.
The United Nations Environment Programme identifies five factors which are responsible for the increase in zoonotic diseases. Unsurprisingly, humans are directly involved with four of the five factors.
Unfortunately, the fashion industry has become a significant contributor to the destruction of biodiversity, wrecking havoc in order to keep up with the insatiable appetite to produce and consume.
Each year about 150 million trees are felled to produce cellulosic fibres such as rayon and viscose. Wood pulp is the core raw material of these fibres. Brazil is the worlds' largest producer of raw cow hides, the key input for leather, and has cleared over 450,000 sqkm of Amazon rainforest for cattle ranching. As forest area reduce, biodiversity declines and biosphere barriers weaken.
Cotton is the single largest consumer of insecticides, polluting groundwater, lakes and rivers while killing natural predators of harmful insects and degrading soil. Cotton requires large amounts of water, destroying water bodies and increasing soil salinity. All of these destroy biodiversity and as soil fertility drops, more forest habitats are cleared for cotton farming land.
Synthetic textiles we use and wash release millions of micro particles into water ways and oceans. So much has been released that micro plastics outweigh the density of zooplankton in the sea. Zooplankton play a major role in controlling marine life & regulating the climate. Unseen to the naked eye, a major environmental crisis is unfolding in the oceans.
The solutions are 1) move away from resource and chemical intensive materials such as cotton and cellulosic fibres, 2) use vegan materials made from sustainable sources and finally 3) reduce consumption.
Hemp and flax, like the hana (Agave cantala) plant used to extract fibre at Kantala, are highly sustainable low resource consuming material sources. These plants don't require insecticides, fertilisers, other chemicals and irrigation. These make hemp and flax very sustainable sources.
Vegan alternatives to leather are becoming increasingly popular. However, in many cases, synthetic polymer based vegan materials are used. This is not a solution.
The vegan handbags made at Kantala use natural and sustainable sources for all materials. The handwoven mat made from hana fibres and the Pinatex made from pineapple fibres are all environmentally friendly sources. There are other vegan materials made from inputs such as cork, cactus and mushroom that are both sustainable and kind to animals.
COVID-19 is a frightening reminder that against natures' wrath man made technologies remain primitive. Rather than attempting to tame mother nature in our quest for infinite development led by consumption, we have a choice to make, and that choice is for us to live in harmony with nature, with respect and compassion. If not, COVID-19 may pale in comparison to what is yet to come.
Sri Lanka counts a recorded history of over 2,500 years and has a vibrant culture, enriched by our unique position along one of the busiest ocean trading routes over the centuries. This has contributed to our diversity in people, fashion, food, architecture, religion, crafts and so much more.
Diversity in fashion - traditional cultural costumes.
The traditional craft sector in Sri Lanka has for centuries played a large part in shaping our cultural heritage. From grand monuments to woven tapestries and from stone carvings to delicate gem work, there are over 52 craft categories in Sri Lanka.
We at Kantala have always believed in the power of our cultural heritage to support the development of Sri Lanka. Starting off Kantala, we made it a point to base the brand on a traditional Sri Lankan craft. While we leveraged our rich history of traditional crafts to create fair and equitable economic opportunities for rural communities, we also found ourselves immensely inspired by the traditional values embodied in these traditional crafts. The vegan handbags we make at Kantala are inspired by the closely held values of our artisans.
Diversity in food - food plays an integral role in celebrating diversity in cultures.
Traditional crafts throughout the world have one common underlying thread. That is the immense respect all of these crafts have for their communities and environment. Traditional crafts embody the spirit of the communities and nature those crafts are made in.
Modern concepts such as sustainability, veganism, ethical manufacturing are concepts which formed towards the latter part of the 20th century in response to the destructive practises of unhinged capitalism and consumerism. However, centuries before, and in great part even today, these weren't merely concepts but a way of life for our artisan communities. These were values they were brought up with, lived with and died by. Traditional craftspeople were the first ethical manufacturing champions - producing ethical goods from sustainable and vegan materials.
Diversity in architecture - buildings and monuments are rich archives of traditional crafts.
At Kantala we work with immense respect and gratitude towards our cultural heritage and our traditional craftspeople because they are well and truly the real pioneers of ethical manufacturing. We love using every opportunity to tell the rest of the world about it and we are so thankful there are millions like you out there who love listening, learning and appreciating our cultural heritage.
Together, by celebrating and recognising the diversity and potential in our cultures, the world can thrive as one, ensuring we live with respect and gratitude towards our communities and environment.
Cultural diversity brings beauty and opportunity to our communities, nations and the world.
]]>
“You will note that we are able to cancel any order at any stage. This includes orders in production and orders in transit. Where we cancel an order, we are not responsible for the cost of the Goods, the cost of any fabric, or any other cost at all, including the cost of any trim or component.”
Today, 24th April marks 7 years since the worst industrial disaster of the 21st century and in the history of the fashion industry. Rana Plaza - a complex of garments in Dhaka, Bangladesh manufacturing clothes for large western fashion brands - collapsed claiming 1,134 lives and injuring over 2,500 workers, some with life altering injuries. The causes of the disaster were traced back to the cut-throat profit maximising practises of the fashion brands. They promised to change.
Topshop parent company Arcadia Group has cancelled over $100 million worth orders in Bangladesh alone.
7 years on, as COVID-19 wrecks havoc throughout the world, fashion brands have sadly shown us nothing has changed. Those cut-throat practises they promised to change continue unabated. The above quote was from the CEO of Arcadia Group - which owns brands such as Topshop, Dorothy Perkins, Miss Selfridge - Ian Grabiner as he justified the reasons for cancelling over $100 million worth of orders from suppliers in Bangladesh. These are orders which have already completed production or are on-going.
The worst part is, Arcadia Group aren't alone in enforcing their savage policies. No one has bothered changing.
US based labour rights group, Worker Rights Consortium, estimates cancellations from brands globally can exceed $20 billion. In particular, the consortium says Arcadia Group only sources 5% of its purchases from Bangladesh. Therefore, Arcadia Groups' total cancellations globally will far exceed the $100 million it is cancelling in Bangladesh alone [link].
At the time of publishing this article, over 13 well known global fashion brands or their parent companies have said they will cancel orders which are ready for shipment or in production, and/or have asked for large discounts and longer payment periods.
Brands such as H&M, Target and Inditex (which owns brands such as Zara, Bershka) have now promised to honour their initial agreements with suppliers after public backlash over their initial decisions to cancel orders, seek discounts or longer payment periods [link]. However, public outcry seems to fall on deaf years at the likes of GAP, C&A and Arcadia Group.
Even in the case of the brands which have promised to honour their contracts, it is not a straightforward matter. Brands place orders with suppliers and transact using what is known as a letter of credit (LC). The brands' bank promises to honour the payment once the shipping documents have been furnished by the supplier. However, brands have the sole authority to decide when they want the shipment to be made. Under these circumstances, it is still unclear if and when suppliers will receive their payments. So it's too early to celebrate the commitments these brands have made.
Data from Centre for Global Workers' Rights report published March 27, 2020.
With fashion brands extracting a majority of profits in the industry value chain, very little is left for everyone, even when times are good. So in a time of crisis, when brands refuse to pay, delay payments and/or ask for large discounts for what suppliers have already spent money on making for the brands, suppliers are left in a perilous situation. Suppliers are walking on thin ice and when the cracks start to appear and the ice gives away, the first to fall through are the garment workers.
Already among the worst paid workers in global supply chains, garment workers are being fired or furloughed without severance pay and in some cases without salaries already owed to them. In Bangladesh alone, over 1.2 million garment workers are estimated to have been furloughed or fired without pay. On a monthly minimum wage of TK 8,000 (roughly around $96) garment workers in Bangladesh live from hand to mouth with hardly anything left to save.
Garment workers in Bangladesh block roads demanding overdue wages (photo courtesy AFP)
Some brands are in negotiations with suppliers for extended payment terms. From the usual 30 to 45 days credit period, brands are now asking for anything between 120 to 150 days. Garment manufacturers don't have large cash reserves. Large brands don't pay advances on the orders placed. However, manufacturers have to pay for raw materials and labour until receiving payment from the brand.
“They never said they will pay. They only said that we’ll not cancel the goods. Cancelling the goods or not taking the goods — for my workers, it is the same. The worker is not getting the money”
Faced with a cash crunch, many factories will be compelled to close or reduce operations. Of 316 factories in Bangladesh surveyed by the Centre for Global Workers’ Rights between March 21 and 25, 58% responded that they will have to close all or some operations due to non-payment or delayed payments. Against this backdrop, countries are estimating mass scale layoffs of garment workers [link].
There is a significant power imbalance in the global fashion industry. Together, large fashion brands have cornered suppliers into a corner, so much that almost all contracts favour the brand, only. Brands carry no financial impact until they take delivery of the very products they mandate suppliers to make. No advance payments are made, cancellations are at the sole discretion of the brands and they decide when they want to take delivery of the goods.
We need to rise and demand brands we purchase from ensure that no worker goes hungry. If there ever was a time to use our privilege to demand action, this is the moment. Our consumptions decisions make an impact and collectively we can amplify it so the women and men who make our clothes don't go hungry and live in fear.
Here are few actions we can take.
Big western brands are breaking their promises and we can't allow them to continue their savage profit maximising policies. Women and men in countries like Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Cambodia and Myanmar shouldn't go to bed in hunger and fear. Together, we have the power to make sure fashion becomes and industry of opportunity and inspiration.
____________________
The rest of us remain confined to our homes under nationwide lockdowns. Here in Sri Lanka, we've been under a nationwide curfew since March 20th. Whilst this has helped to reduce the spread of COVID19, it's already had a significant impact on the socially and economically vulnerable communities in the country. Amongst these communities are traditional craftspeople who depend on small businesses to continue supporting them with work.
Unfortunately, with the prevailing global conditions we at Kantala have seen our revenue disappear. However, for Nadishan and I the purpose of starting Kantala was to preserve and promote Sri Lanka's traditional crafts and we resolutely stand by this purpose even now. Our artisans have inspired Nadishan and I with their sincerity, passion and enthusiasm to overcome obstacles faced in the past. Today, it is from these same values that we draw inspiration to remain by their side so we all see this through together.
Their wellbeing is our primary concern right now. We remain in frequent contact with our chief artisan to make sure all our artisans are healthy and safe. We are helping them to make sense of COVID-19's impact on society, on our economies and its likely long term effects.
We have slashed our budgets in order to stretch our finances as long as possible to support our artisans while keeping Kantala afloat. We have already started distributing a fortnightly food package put together in consultation with our chief artisan in addition to a small financial package.
In these uncertain times, we don't know what the next week will hold let alone next month. But we will continue our mission to protect and promote our traditional artisans through the vegan handbags we make and love to see you use and enjoy. We will be here to face a world after COVID19 with renewed hope and passion for our people and planet. We hope you too will be there to join us. Until then, please do stay safe and all of us at Kantala send our strength, positive energy and love to all of you.
Thank you and sincerely,
_____________
All images were taken prior to the outbreak of COVID-19.
]]>Hiranya Pieris, quite simply put, studies the Big Bang. She was an integral member of the 27 strong team of the Wilkinson Microwave Anisotropy Probe (WMAP) which in 2018 won the Breakthrough Prize for Fundamental Physics and an endorsement from world famous physicist Stephen Hawkins who said the team’s work on cosmic inflation as “the most exciting development in physics during his career”. Amongst others, she is the recipient of the Fred Hoyle Medal and Prize of the UK based Institute of Physics in 2018 for “her leading contributions to understanding the origin and evolution of cosmic structure”. [UCL profile]
Vajira Chitrasena is an iconic Sri Lankan ballet and traditional dancer. She was the first professional female Kandyan dancer - a leading dance tradition in Sri Lanka. Her many exploits paved the way for generations of women after her to take up traditional dancing professionally in Sri Lanka. Her contribution to traditional dancing was not only limited to Sri Lanka. She was very recently recognised by India with the Padma Shri Award, one of the highest civilian honours in India, for her “pioneering contributions in their individual fields of work and for strengthening India-Sri Lanka ties”. [Chitrasena Dance School]
Minnette de Silva is widely recognised as Sri Lanka’s first modernist architect, bursting on to the scene a decade well ahead of her better known contemporary, Geoffrey Bawa. She was the first Asian woman to become an Associate of the Royal Institute of British Architects. In the middle of the 20th century in a male dominated industry, Minnette de Silva rubbed shoulder with the likes of Le Corbusier and Pablo Picasso. She is also widely credited for integrating and promoting the use of traditional crafts in architecture.
Hasini is credited with leading research which discovered a signalling pathway that controls how cancer cells metastasise through the body and a way to block that pathway. Her research counts amongst the most notable in recent history in the study and treatment of cancer and has formed the basis for new developments in therapeutics targeting tumour growth and metastasis. Hasini featured in the Forbes 30 Under 30 - Science 2019 list for her groundbreaking work. She is without doubt an inspiration for young women to achieve greater things in the field of science. [@HasiniJt]
Asha's research has helped to understand the behaviour patterns - mostly unknown or little understood before - of blue whales in the Indian ocean and support their conservation. Along with a team of international researchers, Asha works closely with the Sri Lankan government to reduce accidents between ships and whales. She holds distinction as the first and only Sri Lankan to have a PhD in Marine Mammal research and first Pew Fellow in Marine Conservation from Sri Lanka. Her conservation efforts and research has brought her many international accolades and recognition, including featuring in BBC's 100 Women in 2018. [@ashadevos]
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
~~~~~
Fashion as a way of life for someone like me cannot be overemphasised, the intrinsic nature of my love for fashion keep driving me toward using unique, original and very quality products that raise the confidence level. As a fashion enthusiast and lover of beautiful thing that promote personal appearance, and all it brings as empowerment and confidence. As for me, my style is very important, having a right bag in the right place at the right time can be fun when you do it with class and style.
The hunger to have a very unique, original and top-notch quality handbag drove me to an online store, my expectation was high and when encountering them I saw the reason why I was so fascinated about being there at all cost. The shop in question is KANTALA that makes VEGAN BAG. The bag was my “special and sole assistant” at the @rawfestuk. The most interesting part of this particular bag is the beauty it adds to your outing and coming in different colours that are eco-friendly.
This bag is very light and easy to carry, if you are in a wheelchair I’m recommending this for you as it has been tested and trusted. It body friendly. You can visit their webpage here to check out different VEGAN BAGS available and the one that suits your taste. They are gorgeous.
Visit my IG page also to check the one I used when I was at Raw Fest.
Love Sam x
~~~~~
About Samanta Bullock: Samanta is a wheelchair model and influencer based in London, UK. She is an activist for fashion and inclusion, documenting her own style via her Instagram profile. She's frequented prestigious fashion events such as the London Fashion Week and Fashions Finest. Samanta is a former wheelchair tennis number 1 from Brazil and winner of a silver medal at Para Pan Am in 2007.
Photo credits: Bartek Odias
]]>So these documentaries in our opinion are several of the best out there to educate and inspire us to change the way the industry operates. We hope you will be inspired by watching these movies as either a student, a designer, a producer, a retailer or a consumer to take action.
The True Cost is one of the most compelling documentaries produced about the fashion industry. The film covers a wide range of issues the industry is grappling with. But the most defining factor about this film is that it goes beyond the fashion supply chain and calls out the root causes behind this destruction - materialism and capitalism. However, not all hope is lost. Through this movie you will get to know the people making a difference in the sector.
Water sustains life on earth. Governments and scientists are spending billions of dollars looking for water in other planets. But we have the very resource here on earth, albeit being destroyed by our irresponsible business and consumption behaviour. RiverBlue with graphical evidence proves why the fashion industry is known to be the second most polluting industry after oil and gas.
You might wonder what a documentary about an agricultural crop has to do with fashion. Cotton is the single largest raw material used in clothing. It is also one of the most destructive crops, consuming the most amount of water, pesticides and insecticides of any agricultural crop. Also, it is probably the only crop that claims the lives of the farmers who grow them. Thanks to companies such as Monsanto which have trapped the Indian cotton farmer in a viscous cycle of debt and deceit, tens of thousands of farmers in India have committed suicide.
This documentary presents to its viewers the changes taking place in the fashion industry highlighting key trends emerging that will reshape the sector. Presented in 6 chapters - from wearable tech to cultured bio fabrics to mending damaged clothes - this documentary open us to the multitude of possibilities out there to change the way the industry is run today.
It's not all doom and gloom in the fashion industry. Fashion has the power to bring happiness to those who make clothes as much as for those who wear it. The industry needs a new generation to revolutionise the way it operates. Alexa Chung presents in a two part series the many wheels that turn behind the glitz and glamour of the fashion industry. A very engaging series it will give anyone considering an entry into the world of fashion a taste of its demands and rewards. If you should decide to enter the world of fashion, keep in mind to make it a fair and equitable one from farmer to consumer and our environment.
Goes to Remake, a social enterprise igniting a conscious consumer movement to turn fashion into a force for good. Their original documentary footage brings you face to face with the women who make our clothes. They share facts and stories to help you break up with fast fashion and provide seasonal curated collections to remake your closet with fashion that respects women and our planet.
]]>When we started Kantala back in 2013, there were only 8 artisans from the village of Henvala engaged with Kantala and the average age of the artisans was close to 60. The younger folk in Henavala showed a lack of interest in the craft and were already engaged in other forms of employment.
Together with Mr Dharmadasa we identified the village of Alokagama, formerly known as Yatwatta, which is about an hours drive further north from the city of Kandy, as a place to recruit new artisans. Families from Henavala and Alokagama have over the generations married into families of the other village. This created a close relationship between the two and many of the villagers in Alokagama were familiar with the craft.
At the entrance to the Alokagama village.
The village community centre - with the residential cattle gracing in the foreground.
Rice fields bordering the village.
In late 2016, together with Mr Dharmadasa we started to train a group from Alokagama and today we have 13 artisans from the village. The best part is their average is 43 years.
The drive from Kandy itself is very scenic and I was quite depressed at having to keep my eyes on the road than take in the scenery - lives were at stake. The village is an absolutely gorgeous place, nestled among rolling mountains and lush vegetation. I met the new artisans at the village community centre. What needs to be mentioned is that all the artisans from Alokagama are women between the ages of 23 and 67 years. They were an immensely energetic bunch, full of life and zeal.
The Knuckles mountain range in the distance seen from the road en-route to Alokagama (and I stopped and got out of the car to take the picture - just saying if you are concerned).
The artisans of Alokagama with Mr Dharmadasa.
Some of the artisans were previously housemaids, working in Middle Eastern countries. This a harsh profession that leaves a considerable toll on both the women who travel to work - in the form of physical and psychological abuse - and the families they leave behind. I was overwhelmed by the gratitude these women had for giving them an opportunity to work from home, weaving hana mats for Kantala and earn a living wage.
The artisans of Alokagama taking part in the Fashion Revolution campaign.
We have been looking to recruit a deputy to work with Mr Dharmadasa and think we have finally found the suitable candidate in Alokagama. With the new artisans at Alokagama, 82% of the artisans engaged with Kantala are women and it is necessary that we have more women coming up the ranks to take charge of securing the future of this 300 year old handwoven craft.
]]>Fast fashion is making clothes cheaper but with shorter lifecycles.
Fast fashion made clothes so cheap consumers no longer associate a value with their purchase. Today, consumers can buy more for less and therefore, associate no pain in throwing away their clothes after a short period of use. In the United States nearly 30kg of garments are thrown away per year per person and in the UK it is expected that 680 million pieces of garment will be discarded this year alone. Consumers who buy the latest trend on the cheap and dispose garments after less than 5 times of use are contributing to the growing amounts of pollution.
Landfill with disposed garments.
A high demand for new garments in turn means higher demand for materials. Cotton and polyester accounted for over 80% of global fibre production in 2013. Cotton consumes 24% of all insecticides and 11% of all pesticides globally, making it the World’s single largest chemical consuming crop. To produce one kilogram of cotton - which his roughly equivalent to a t-shirt and pair of jeans, 20 thousand litres of water is required. Synthetic materials such as polyester fibre consumes about 70 million barrels of oil annually and takes over 200 years to decompose.
As consumers we need to rethink and change our buying behaviour. We need to consider buying clothes which we value and will be used longer. The more we try to keep up with changing fashion trends the more we contribute to the damage done to our environment.
Organic cotton does not use chemicals and while more expensive than industrial cotton, you are guaranteed that your garment didn’t leave a stain on the environment. However, organic cotton will consume as much water owing to the very nature of the plant. Over the next 10 years water consumption is expected to grow by 40% while the global population is expected to grow only by 10%. This means two-thirds of the world population will live in water-stressed regions.
A far more credible alternative is switching from cotton or polyester based clothes to linen based clothes. Linen reduces our impact on the environment and the frequency we need to buy clothes. Made from flax fibres, which include hemp and jute, linen is durable and lasts longer than cotton. It consumes far less energy and natural resources compared to cotton while pesticides and other chemicals are not required. As a natural fibre it decomposes leaving no trace.
That’s why at Kantala we love the hana plant. The fibre we extract from the hana plant is a flax fibre which means the hana mats will last longer and come with next to no impact on the environment. As a naturally regenerating plant it is also a sustainable source of material when harvested with care.
Hemp cultivation does not require chemicals and yields as much as 8 tons of dry fibre per acre.
Hana leaves yield fibre which are categorised as flax fibre.
The “slow fashion” movement is at the forefront of countering the ugly beast of “fast fashion”. The slow fashion movement promotes garments made from ethical and sustainable sources of material. The movement prioritises value over cost. Unlike the world of fast fashion, we believe in making fashion items which last longer, which are good for people and good for the planet. However, that means no cutting corners leading to higher prices compared to fast fashion garments. But, you will find an emotional connection with your slow fashion product which makes you value it more and use more than the cheap fast fashion garments.
Mainstream brands such as Patagonia are encouraging consumers to buy less.
That means in the long run you will use it for longer, spend less and leave a smaller pollution footprint on our environment. So in commemoration of World Environment Day let us take it upon ourselves to make the little changes in our lifestyles to help the environment heal and protect planet Earth for the future.
Note:
Facts and assertions made in this article have been sourced from mainstream media such as the BBC, Huffington Post, The Washington Post, Forbes, The Guardian and global organisations such as the World Wildlife Fund for Nature. Kantala has not verified the accuracy of the information taken from these sources.
]]>The collapsed Rana Plaza building.
Victims being rescued from the building collapse site.
"Death of a thousand dreams"
We were all part of a broken system, too occupied and ignorant to think beyond the high street shops to the production floors where thousands of men and women stitch millions of garments. That’s why following the harrowing events of 24th April 2013 a group of people got together and asked the question “WHO MADE MY CLOTHES?”. It is time we asked the right questions, because behind every piece of garment we buy could be the life of a hardworking young man or woman on the line.
So came to being the “FASHION REVOLUTION” movement, a movement of designers, academics, writers, business leaders, policymakers, brands, retailers, marketers, producers, makers, workers and fashion lovers all with a common objective - to create transparency in the world of fashion from the cotton farmer to the end consumer.
Each year, the number of consumers asking their brands #whomademyclothes is increasing. During Fashion Revolution Week 2017 a group of Sri Lankan inspired ethical enterprises came together with the Good Market Sri Lanka to celebrate the fashion industry and the importance of asking #whomademyclothes? Kantala along with Selyn Handlooms, House of Lonali, Pras and Danties, Dodo Footwear, Pedals Footwear, Parkville Sunglasses, Sari Connection and Rice & Carry joined forces to organise a week of activities culminating with a special event at the 29th April 2017 Good Market.
A traditional artisan from Kantala.
A shoemaker from Pedals Footwear.
An employee from Selyn Handlooms.
Activities throughout the week included each brand reaching out to their consumers through social media sharing stories and images from their workshops and suppliers. The week involved educating our artisans, employees, suppliers and contractors on why Fashion Revolution is important to them and what they need to stand up for to make the world of fashion a fair and responsible industry. Each brand contributed photographs of their artisans recognising the faces behind the products each brand produces.
The brands came together to spread the message “FASHION SHOULD FEEL GOOD” among consumers, organising a special stall at the 29th April 2017 Good Market. Through a variety of activities the brands engaged with consumers and prompted them to ask the important question #whomademyclothes? Consumers were quizzed on where the clothes they were wearing were made and asked to pin the country on a world map. While not many people knew where their clothes were made it opened up an engaging conversations between the participating brands and the consumers. It was a great eye opener for a lot of consumers as they took away with them a new perspective about being a responsible consumer.
The Fashion Revolution stall at the Good Market, Colombo, Sri Lanka.
Educating participants on the importance of ethical fashion and responsible consumerism.
#whomademyclothes - participants taking part in the activities.
#whomademyclothes - participants taking part in the activities.
#whomademyclothes - participants taking part in the activities.
2017 marked a significant year for Fashion Revolution in Sri Lanka as it is the first time such a large number of local ethical brands came together to celebrate the movement. At Kantala we applaud the Good Market team for initiating the collaboration and supporting the brands. Fashion Revolution is strong in Sri Lanka and all of us at Kantala are super excited about the great things that we can do together to make the world of fashion a beautiful, safe and fair place for everyone.
]]>Mrs Sumanawathi (right) having a chat with Vikum.
Scraping Hana leaves to extract fibre.
Mrs Sumanawathi attended the Matale Weera Parakrama Central College for her formal education. As was the case with many children in rural Sri Lanka during the middle part of the 20th century, she dropped out of school at the young age of 11 years.
She apprenticed under her parents learning the basic techniques of weaving the Hana mat. She assisted her parents with harvesting Hana leaves, extracting fibre and preparing the dyed fibre for weaving. With time she became increasingly proficient in the hand weaving technique mastering complex designs. This led to her participation in the “Guru Shilpee” (translated as “master artisan”) programme conducted by the National Crafts Council.
After her marriage to Mr Rupathilake, a highly skilled Hana mat weaver from the village of Henavala, Mrs Sumanawathi moved to Henavala. She is a mother of two children. Weaving Hana mats at home allowed her to secure an income while tending to her family. After the Government run crafts boutique, Laksala, was set up in 1982 she started to produce finished goods such as bags, wallets and purses to sell at Laksala.
Mrs Sumanawathi with her husband, Mr Rupathilake (right)
Showing us some of her finished product samples which she no longer makes.
However, with cheaper imports of higher quality arriving in the local market during the early 1990s both price pressure and lack of demand took its toll on her work. Laksala was unable to pay a price which compensated adequately for her work and payments were being delayed causing her to run into debt. Eventually, she stopped producing finished goods and concentrated on producing more Hana mats.
Today, she works closely with us at Kantala and produces much of the mats used in Kantala handbags. She is an industrious lady with a beaming smile. We often pay her a visit when we are at the village and she always makes sure we leave after having a cup of tea. She is keen to see the development of the Hana mat weaving craft and see a new generation take up the craft. She hopes Kantala’s efforts to popularise the craft with a global community will shine a new light on her beloved industry.
Girl power: the women behind the weave. Mrs. Sumanawathi (right) with her fellow artisans.
A message from Mrs Sumanawathi for the Fashion Revolution Week 2017 campaign.
]]>No lengthy introduction is required for this brilliant lady. She is in the forefront of creating a movement which places ethics and sustainability at the core of business. Eco Age Ltd, which she founded, helps organisations throughout the world to create and implement sustainable values and processes throughout their business.
Livia leads by example, be it wearing a dress made from ethical materials to the Met Gala, or traveling to countries such as Bangladesh, Kenya and Zambia where she sits down with the very people who make our clothes to learn first hand what can be done to improve the fashion industry supply chain. Through initiatives such as the Green Carpet Challenge, Livia has engaged the services of other celebrities and notable persons to further spread the word of ethical fashion.
For someone who is so influential and high up on the social ladder, her posts are highly relatable and her Instagram feed gives the sense of a person who is grounded and approachable. We are always inspired by the content she shares and it continuously reinforces in our minds that the ethical fashion movement is strong and growing.
Jennifer, originally from Melbourne, Australia is a truly inspiring story for all of us who are working to make the world of fashion a fair and compassionate place.
She started her blog “Eco Warrior Princess” back in 2010, when the ethical fashion movement was still at its infancy. She is one of the true pioneers of it, persisting with her message through thick and thin. Today, over 29k people visit her blog (ecowarriorprincess.net) and she has over 17k followers on Instagram.
Browsing through her Instagram feed, you immediately see how effortlessly she has combined fashion with sustainable values, creating a message that you can look great without compromising on ethical principles.
Her work isn’t confined to fashion and reaches into other sectors as well. She is the co-owner of a certified organic farm in Australia and helps other ethical minded businesses through her digital marketing and copywriting agency “The Social Copywriter”.
Katie set off on her ethical fashion mission back in 2011 with a series of clothing Swap events at her university under the banner “Sustainability in Style”. Since, her efforts have morphed into a blog and social media presence which have garnered over 19k followers on Instagram.
Brought up in a family that values a sustainable lifestyle, Katie has a wealth of life experience behind her having studied multiple subject areas - starting with fashion, then to tourism and settling with science - and travelled to multiple countries in support of charity.
Katie is an inspiring influencer to all of us at Kantala given her constant effort to educate and reinvent herself - she is currently following a masters in sustainability. She is doing all this while consistently delivering her message of sustainable fashion through her blog and beautifully curated social media presence.
Armed with a background in fashion and an insatiable drive for curating chic sustainable and ethical fashion outfits, Natalie has seen her following on social media reach the tens of thousands with over 77k following her on Instagram.
True to her blog and social media title, Natalie has developed a penchant for effortlessly curating chic outfits which continue to reinforce in the minds of her followers that sustainable fashion does not compromise the aesthetics of fashion.
Her posts move beyond the fashion element and explores the values behind the brands she features. From a Haitian social enterprise supporting teenage boys as they transition into adulthood through jewellery making to Malaysia where a social enterprise which is helping women step up from poverty through batik fashion accessories, Natalie ensures the bigger picture is always highlighted.
Born and raised in Bolivia, Valarie channeled her passion for the conscious lifestyle into an online blog and social media presence after having endured 5 years of the craziness the world of private investment banking is.
Valarie is another one of our favourite influencers who has reinvented herself overtime taking into account her life experiences and resources around her. She’s both a certified yoga instructor and a certified vegan-chef - now that is definitely impressive. While she identifies herself primarily as a “conscious lifestyle and eco-travel blogger”, Valarie turns out some great fashion outfits - all of which are from ethical brands. Her beautifully shot posts all deliver a consistent message of an ethical lifestyle.
While her travel posts make us pretty envious we love the fact she ranks Asia as one of her favourite destinations.
Hannah is on a mission to champion social justice through the choices we make in everyday life. Through her social media presence and blog, Hannah advocates a conscious lifestyle and the importance of slow fashion and responsible travel.
She brings a unique perspective to how the ethical fashion movement interacts with the everyday consumer. You’ll find her addressing questions like “how can ethical brands educate and encourage the not so well to do consumer to embrace conscious fashion?”. We love her efforts to go all the way up the supply chain and explore where our clothes come from.
Hannah has a great sense of fashion and style. Coupled with her values of conscious consumerism, Hannah consistently comes up with some great outfits on her Instagram feed. Just like the other influencers above, we draw a lot of inspiration and ideas from her posts on Instagram.
Safia is another pioneering lady in the world of ethical fashion. She is the founder of People Tree, which for over 25 years has been championing the ethical fashion movement. From its humble beginnings, People Tree has grown to become a pioneer in ethical and environmentally sustainable fashion.
At Kantala, Safis’s story is one we think of when we have our hard times. While in a country such as Sri Lanka - were the domestic consumer market is very small and the ethical consumer movement is still in its infancy - the humble beginnings of People Tree and the perseverance of Safia give us the motivation to continue moving forward.
She is often on the ground, visiting the people who work behind the scenes, educating the next generation of business leaders or working on her own sustainable footwear brand Po-Zo. Following her on Instagram we find a lot of motivation from her diverse areas of work and little snippets of advice.
There are more amazing influencers on Instagram and other social media platforms who we love. But in the interest of highlighting the influencers we follow closely we had to narrow them down to the top 7. But, below are some of the influencers we have to give special mention to in brief.
If you are an ethical consumer, an ethical fashion designer, social entrepreneur or an ethical fashion/lifestyle blogger just getting off the blocks, make sure to follow these amazing people on social media. I am sure you will be inspired by them as much as all of us at Kantala are.
]]>300 years ago, the first weavers of Henavala understood that the material used for weaving had to be flexible but strong and colourless - enabling them to dye in a desired colour. One plant, “Niyanda”, yielded a fibre which is very fine and soft whilst being strong and colourless. Known in English as snake plant (Sansevieria zeylanica), it grew abundantly in the dry and rocky areas close to the village.
Niyanda (snake plant, Sansevieria zeylanica) plants
However, 300 years later owing to the growth in population and the changes in the environment, the Niyanda plant is no longer readily available to harvest. The plant is now confined to the protected forest reserves. Therefore, in the latter part of the 1900s the villagers had to move to an alternative source of fibre.
This is where the Hana plant (Agave cantala) steps into the picture. With thick, long and prickly leaves growing in a rosette, the plant yields a very strong but fine and translucent fibre. Each rosette will flower once and dies afterwards. Until the rosette flowers, it is possible to harvest leaves without killing the plant. This makes Hana a sustainable source of fibre.
Rosettes of Hana growing on a rock slab (left) | Harvesting Hana leaves from a well grown rosette (right)
When the plant flowers, a long scape grows from the centre of the rosette up to about 4-6 meters in height. Flowers sprout along this scape. The flowers turn into small bulb like pods. While the pod is still attached to the scape, it will germinate with the first leaves appearing from within the pod. Gradually, the pods will start to drop from the scape and scatter around the mother plant. Each plant can yield several hundred pods.
Once the seedlings are planted, it takes about 3 years for the Hana plant to be ready for its first harvest. Depending on how leaves are harvested, each plant can yield one harvests one to two year.
Scape growing from a Hana rosette (left) | Bulb like pods (centre) | Germinated pods yet to fall off scape (right)
The Hana plant is recognised by the villagers for its other uses. When grown together, the Hana plants make for a great bio-fence. Its thick prickly rosette helps to keep away wild animals - even elephants and wild boar - which are notorious for destroying cultivated land. As the plant is naturally adapt at growing in the dry and arid regions of the country, no watering or fertilising is required for the plant to grow.
Today, as a sustainable source the Hana plant carries on its shoulders the handwoven mat, providing its key material. We at Kantala from the very beginning felt that the Hana plant is due a special place in our story. Therefore, we decided to name the brand after the Sanskrit name of the plant.
]]>I first met Mr Harispattuwelage Gedara Dharamadasa back in December 2013. It was a meeting of both chance and design. I had heard about a village outside of Sri Lanka’s second largest city and last royal Kingdom, Kandy, and went to a regional government office in order to find my way to this village – by design. Luckily, a gentleman at the office knew a couple of people at this particular village and spoke to them over the phone in order to set up a meeting. Only one of them agreed to meet me – by chance.
Mr Dharmadasa with the numerous awards he has received.
Mr Dharmadasa on his way to harvest Hana leaves.
Upon arriving at the village, which is nestled between picturesque mountain ranges, I met a slightly built gent with a warm smile. Since then Mr Dharmadasa has been our key partner managing all the operations in the village where the hana fibre is sourced and mats are woven.
Mr Dharmadasa, born in April 1949, is the youngest of three siblings. Born in the village of Henavala – as known back then – he attended the local school, Kengalle Central College. From an early age he showed a keen interest in the weaving technique apprenticing under his father, Mr Ukkubanda. Upon completing his secondary education at the age of 18 he undertook weaving on a full time basis.
Mr Dharmadasa (left) discussing designs with Vikum (right) and Nadishan (centre).
Initially, Mr Dharmadasa started weaving wall decorations – continuing the traditional product his ancestors presented to the then king of Kandy. He made his first sale in 1969 to the government owned handicraft enterprise.
Mr Dharmadasa is a recipient of the highest honour bestowed upon traditional artisans in Sri Lanka – the “Kala Chakrawarthi” (translated loosely as “craft grandmaster”) accolade. He received this honour in 1999 in addition to the numerous awards and honours he has won from the National Crafts Council of Sri Lanka, World Crafts Council and National Youth Council of Sri Lanka among others.
Mr Dharmadasa’s generation is quite possibly the last generation which will engage in the industry. Of the 115 families resident in the village only 15-20 families today engage in the traditional weaving industry and this number is dwindling fast. Efforts are being made to encourage communities outside of the village to take up the traditional weaving technique. With the demand created by Kantala for the woven mat and our fair trade policies, Mr Dharmadasa now devotes a considerable part of his time to train new communities. At Kantala we are hopeful this process will take off soon and Mr Dharmadasa will continue to be beacon of this illustrious traditional art.
Mr Dharmadasa weaving a Hana mat
A message from Mr Dharmadasa for the Fashion Revolution Week 2017 campaign.
]]>Our core material, the hana fibre, is sourced from a sustainable plant. This means as we harvest the leaves from the plant, it continues to regrow. We introduced environmentally friendly materials such as OEKO Tex 100 Standard and ISO certified reactive dyes to colour the hana fibre for our products while sourcing other materials such as handloom from Sri Lanka's only Fair Trade guaranteed handloom manufacturer. We also tapped into new sectors to secure up-cycled materials such as coconut shells.
So when we received the "Sustainable Sourcing Award 2016" from the Good Market back in January 2017, we were pretty ecstatic. It was a great motivator to see our efforts being recognised by the Good Market but it also provided us an indication that we are heading in the right direction.
There is a lot to be done in 2017 to convert the efforts over the last couple of years into a sustainable long-term venture. Starting off 2017 with the "Sustainable Sourcing Award" has certainly given us added motivation. Thank you Good Market for the recognition.
Visit our Good Market profile page here
]]>